``We traveled some 500 miles along the border -- sometimes right next to Ukraine, at other times 30 to 40 miles from it -- before we came across any sign of military activity. As we passed Belgorod's army base, near the airport, I recognized the same MI-24 choppers I'd seen on the Internet. We got lucky -- a pair took off as we drove past. We turned back to see them banking within the base's perimeter. Nearby, clusters of military vehicles, mostly heavy trucks, were out in the open, but where were the tanks and artillery?''

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